Gary (our videographer) and I went to explore Regensburg as guests of Germany Tourist Board, a university city hailed as the best preserved medieval city in Germany, offering a heady combination of a beautiful skyline, impressive historic monuments and legendary Bavarian hospitality.
Although Bavaria lives up to all its wonderful cliches of lederhosen, dirndls and of course, its beer-swigging, jolly festivals, in my opinion, the Southeastern state of Germany offers much more than just a fine place to get drunk!
What’s so special about Regensburg?
It’s a place where pristinely glossy landscapes are punctuated with story-book castles, traditional churches and neat and medieval towns which go about their time-warped business in a peaceful, pristine kind of way.
Some of my family live in Bavaria, so it’s a region that has always held a special place in my heart and I felt a unique connection with it as soon as I arrived there.
The Old Town of Regensburg (with Stadtamhof) is a UNESCO World Heritage site and over the decades the city has risen through the affluence stakes to become one of the most sought-after places to live in Bavaria.
Outside Germany though, it’s a place that remains very much under the tourist radar and I believe it’s a city destination that deserves a lot more attention. Here’s what I suggest to do in Regensburg in 48 hours if you visit at Christmas…
Watch: Our Cinematic Christmas Weekend in Regensburg Video with drone footage (which went viral)!
1. Wander the Beautiful Lanes in the Old Town
Packed full of magnificent medieval buildings, Regensburg wears its UNESCO badge with a lot pride. I love that it takes its heritage extremely seriously—for example, most of its buildings are now officially preserved and protected from alteration, so if a resident wants to repaint a house, for example, its colour has to conform to those used in the past!
I found it to be an extraordinary place with a cosy, quaint vibe with a mix of fine historic buildings, modern restaurants and cosmopolitan bars, and a seemingly endless network of narrow, atmospheric cobbled lanes lined with gorgeous boutique stores from chic clothes boutiques to shops selling artisan-made wooden gifts.
I loved just wandering through the winding cobbled streets, soaking up the pristine medieval charm of the place. It felt so untouched by tourism, and for a moment, I could almost imagine myself as a local, fully immersed in its timeless beauty.
At Christmas, I loved that the charming atmosphere in the lanes turns up several notches. This is when the elegant buildings are adorned with hundreds of twinkling lights and when the shops start selling exquisite handcrafted Christmas decorations, which I spent hours gazing at!
2. Go for a drink in one of the cosy bars
This time of year, Germany seems to be experiencing its own version of “Hygge”, and I think there’s no better place to experience this than in one of their bars or restaurants.
I wandered the city centre’s cobbled lanes, gawping at the Christmas lights, and then trading in the dark, chilly winter night for a cosy drink or two at one of the inviting bars, which were often illuminated by soft, warm lighting.
Drinking in Regensburg is still as traditional and laid-back as you’d expect it to be in Bavaria but also exceptionally classy. My personal favourite bars included Orphée, Kaminski, and Hemingway’s and I found them lurking in the heady maze of alleys between Haidplatz and Neupfarrplatz.
3. Explore the Romantic Christmas Market!
I’d never experienced a Christmas Market as atmospheric and mysterious as this one! Regensburg’s Old Town was filled with hundreds of listed buildings but this palace and its grounds were most definitely the jewel in the crown. During the middle of the 18th century, the princes of Thurn and Taxis turned a former monastery into a beautiful palace residence.
From the 29th of November to the 23rd of December each year, the palace turns into a magical Christmas Market, which I thought could have been plucked straight from a Bavarian storybook!
Known locally as the ‘Romantic Market,’ the entrance was truly jaw-dropping – it featured a path illuminated by flame torches leading to a large array of traditional stalls and huts. These were adorned with freshly cut pine and spruce branches, offering winter rugs, Christmas ornaments, clothing, and handcrafted metalware. All of this was encircled by a sea of sparkling lights. Wow!
Smaller illuminated pathways led to alfresco champagne bars perched high on a hill, down to picturesque traditional children’s fairground rides, or toward cosy Glühwein stalls.
I loved that it was a visual feast for all the senses. Smoke from open campfires billowed into the frosty darkness, while the aromas of burnt candy and caramelised almonds permeated the air. The regal sounds of bugles signalled the start and end of the festivities. To me, it was pure perfection in a Christmas market!
4. Dine out in Stadtamhof
Stadtamhof is a small Bavarian neighbourhood in the middle of the independent city of Regensburg. I reached it just by walking over the stone bridge that crossed the Danube River (the oldest preserved bridge in the whole of Germany).
It’s a place where residents enjoy the peacefulness of its offset location on the banks of the Danube, yet they were still only a stone’s throw from the city. I loved the relaxed, cosy vibe there.
I found it to be an elegant and picturesque neighborhood, lined with a fine collection of bars, restaurants, and small shops still run by the same families. With its great choice of restaurants that exude a real local vibe, I personally think it’s one of the best areas to eat out in the city!
5. Explore the Advent Christmas Market
This time of year, Regensburg hosts no less than four separate Christmas markets, and in my opinion, each is a must-see! When I last visited Regensburg in the summer, this area transformed into a beautiful beer garden with a much-envied spot on the Danube River.
I love how, during the winter, it transforms into a magical Christmas market. I especially adored the beautifully illuminated cathedral and the collection of traditional stalls, flanked by open campfires and a towering Christmas tree. With more freshly made culinary delights and Glühwein than one could possibly indulge in, it was pure bliss!
6. Stay at the Green Spirt Design Hotel
The Green Spirit Hotel was our accommodation during our stay, and it perfectly captured the city’s unique, new boutique vibe. Set in a historic 18th-century building that once served as a brewery—a very Bavarian touch—it now functions as a trendy hotel with a modern annex.
The chic dining room, stylish yet quirky minimalist decor, and a wonderful courtyard garden complete with a greenhouse (where vegetables and herbs used by the hotel chef are grown) made it absolutely adorable!
